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Doesn't get much better - at Britomart Reef |
There could not have been a
greater contrast in the weather between Cristy and Johnno’s visit this year and
last year.
Idyllic would best describe
the conditions we’ve had so far. Beautiful days, light winds and gentle seas.
We spent the first day
exploring a couple of creeks in the Hinchinbrook Channel with both Johnno and
Cristy catching a nice selection of bream for dinner.
Day two and we headed out of
the channel for the short trip across to Garden Island. This tiny island has a big sand spit jutting out into the water
creating a calm lagoon for anchoring.
This was our jump off point
for an early start on the long journey out to Britomart Reef on Monday.
Britomart is part of the Great
Barrier Reef and is 40
nautical miles (approx 75kms) – or around seven hours for us - from the
mainland. The sea was relatively flat with a light breeze so we motor-sailed on
one motor and the headsail, arriving just after 1pm, right on low tide (a very
low one) so we could see the entry into the reef lagoon.
It was like entering a lake
in the middle of the ocean. Waves were breaking over the outer reef but inside
it was glass-like – and teeming with fish big and small. A pod of dolphins
lazily dipped feeding around the lagoon entry before making their way in with
the tide.
Johnno and I manned the
front hulls looking for stray bommies. It’s unnerving when one suddenly appears
right in front of you – too late to avoid. You can only hope there’s enough
water between it and you to sail over the top!
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Unbelievable - the lagoon at Britomart Reef, 40 nautical miles out. |
We anchored in 20 metres of crystal
clear water and while Johnno stayed on board to fish, Cristy, Royden and I
headed off to snorkel the bommies. The fish were amazing in their variety,
volume and size. It was like swimming in a giant aquarium.
A bit unnerving was the
appearance of several black-tipped reef sharks near the dinghy moments before
we went over the side but these are generally shy creatures and, true to form,
disappeared as soon as we jumped in.
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Snorkelling in the aquarium. |
All was going really well
until late in the afternoon when the rising tide brought the sea over the reef
along with the ocean swell. Alright for some but a sure recipe for sea sickness
for others.
With Cristy prone on the
back seat and looking green we made the decision at dusk to return to more
sheltered waters rather than subject her to at least six more hours of rolling
swell before the tide retreated.
Getting back out through the
reef on a rising tide proved more tricky than coming in but suffice to say we
made it with scraping any barnacles off the boat bottom – just!
It was a glorious sail back
to the lee side of Hinchinbrook Island. A full moon, a following swell and a light breeze
blowing us in the right direction assisted in Cristy being upright again
two-thirds into the trip. We dropped anchor into the still waters off Macushla Beach
in Missionary Bay
shortly after midnight and all
retreated to bed and a sleep-in.
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Floating and fishing off Gould Island |
With Gould Island on the doorstep of Missionary Bay
we decided to float across there on Tuesday and drift around fishing. We spent
a delightful few hours lolling around, losing bait but not catching much,
before returning to the tip of Hinchinbrook at Cape Richards and going ashore
to look at the wreckage of what was once the Hinchinbrook Island resort
with its dozen tree housed dotted into the hillside. The resort was abandoned
long before Yasi hit and we suspect that vandals have done more damage than the
cyclone did. It was quite disturbing and is such a waste.
We returned to Missionary Bay
for an overnight anchorage so that we could take this morning's rising tide into
one of eight creeks off the bay. The creeks are several metres deep but the
entries are inaccessible at low tide.
The creeks
run almost parallel with each other and we're currently anchored in Creek #7 which has a boardwalk at the end
leading to Ramsay Bay
and its extensive beach, which is the beginning, or end, of the 32 km
Thorsborne walking track that runs down the east coast of the island.
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Number 6 creek off Missionary Bay which links into Number 7 creek and a boardwalk through to the eastern beach at Ramsay Bay. |